The top 10 style misconceptions of 2015 post raised a few questions from readers via email; especially number 6, which was about the unconstructed jacket. What is it? What does it look and feel like? Well, this type of jacket also known as a deconstructed or soft jacket is a typical Neapolitan jacket designed with little or no interfacing, padding or lining to produce a loose, soft shape for hot climate wear – which is excellent for tropical regions wear the sun shines like no other.
Generally, the fabrics used in an unconstructed jacket are cotton, linen, lightweight wool’s or blended fabrics and they usually come in neutral tone colours.
Unconstructed jackets can be either half or fully lined, have no fusing and no canvas. In comparison, fully constructed jackets are always fully lined, have fusing and canvas, generally have normal padding with stiffer, cleaner lines.
Some common features of a deconstructed jacket you can look out for are exposed seams, working cuffs and patch pockets.
Armholes are usually cut high which may constrict movement slightly. The jacket itself is cut very close to the body – which makes getting your deconstructed jacket slightly loose at the chest and arms a good idea. Based on these quirks, unconstructed jackets tend to be better looking and more practical on less bulky men.
Unconstructed jackets usually have 2 layers consisting of the cloth itself and the lining compared to the 3 to 4 layers semi-constructed and fully constructed jackets have.
Its advantage lies mostly in the fact that it’s soft and has a ‘flowy’ shape, looks loose and relaxed, fits really well, can be easily dressed up or down and whatever you loose in structure you gain in comfort. They’re great for outdoor weddings and events – wear with chinos, jeans or even shorts.
Its disadvantage is that it’s usually made using stiff fabrics like cotton or linen; making it a good idea to have your unconstructed jacket made in a blended mix of cotton and wool because wool stretches better than linen or cotton.
If you live in the tropics like I do (and unfortunately sweat as much as I do) you won’t want to be wearing wool jackets most of the time. Most of mine have been sitting in the wardrobe untouched for months. Shop in-store or online for an unconstructed sports jacket or blazer to add something lighter and different to your wardrobe.
Do you already have one? Where did you get it or who made it for you? It’ll help if you let us know in the comments how your unconstructed jacket compares to a fully constructed version. In the meantime, stay fresh.